Friday, October 24, 2008

[Day 27] Walking Around Auckland

3 nights of going away parties settles you into an exhausted state of repose. The clock hands are sitting with their feet together. No sunset, too much drizzle. Thinking about the many kind people who encouraged me to write of a book. Perhaps it's a good idea. Try some meditative posts. Emotions, thoughts, intimacies. Ponder and recount them often.

Go to the Belgian cafe where you chilled on your birthday morning, where that sweet French waitress brought you that amazing omelette, the one called 'The Hang-Over', and those two perfect soy Lattes. Damn the coffee's good here! iPod's dead. Take it as a blessing, an omen to plug into Auckland. I'm at a big wooden table; could easily accommodate 12 yet it's only me and an English couple; we exchange smiles. They talk like old lovers. They behave like old lovers. Beautiful.

Got well acquainted with another Swedish girl last night. Wonderful bird. That uncanny aura that surrounded her. Such wholesomeness. Such grace. Eyes so blue, that rare electric shade you see in adds for contact lenses. Sincere eyes that emanate joy and goodness. Purely positive eyes that contain the humble secrets of the universe. I'm longing for the opportunity to stare into them again: they taught so much. It was a beautiful night. In Sydney she awaits.

Prneella tugs at my heart, yet the futility of any serious love affair is clear. Finish my drink and notice the cafe filling up; leave and walk down the main drag. A million gentle rain drops kiss my face. A group of Chinese, perhaps 150 deep from all generations, are parading down the opposite sidewalk protesting the travesties of Red China. One sign reads “Stop the harvest of live human organs. 3,200 innocent people tortured.” The suited man in front chants a demand over his megaphone. The procession repeats. Another demand. The choir repeats.

I arrive at a 24 hr coffee house. Half past 6. Another soy latte. Damn the coffee's good here. Backpackers are a new breed indeed. The vast majority naturally share interests, values, and freedom; there is a common understanding that each has his or her own agenda; close relationships smoothly form and dissolve. Most seek simple happiness—to talk and laugh and party and play like old friends, knowing they will never cross paths again. Open, curious, and accepting... neither judgmental nor materialistic... a wondrous return to innocence... beautiful. We live with these people and they live with us, completely out of our backpacks. A consequent trust exists and deepens these fluid friendships.

That funny round boy at our hostel. Pale stubbly face. Bald. 30ish. He wanders around talking to himself, often complaining about something. Plays a violin in the streets for money. Needs lessons. Strange lifestyle choice. In Taupo there were the 2 honeymooning video-game programmers who were kind enough to share a few drinks. Not the most social people: semi-awkward, spoke little, used unnecessary intellectual vocabulary, dude had a receding hairline and a curly red ponytail, girl never really looked up. But we had a ball together and wildly danced the night away. At Blue Lake in Rotorua there was Lee the English Army Officer who was on holiday with his lovely girlfriend. What a couple. Talked guy things with Lee and within 10 minutes he ran off to pick up beer. Rad. Returned with 2 cases of Corona. We were pretty pissed up after the first lot but he jabbed “the England finish.” OH YEAH!? Stayed up 'til 3am immersed in enlightening conversation, namely travel, military, and home. Demanded when we go to London we call him so he can take us out for proper English pub-life. You're the man Lee!

Had a Snicker's bar and 2 lattes for lunch. Stomach ache. Worth it. Sydney tomorrow at 1:45pm. Stoked to meet up with Maskell, Kary, & Crystal. They'll be the first of our SD friends over seas. Greek Aztecs are a different breed as well... gnarly debauchery is guaranteed. Smiling. Fuzzy feeling. Lol.

Small birds keep flying into the coffee house. Harmless little buggers. Help out the staff by cleaning the floor. Look at 'em. Just hopping around. All beige and cute and shit. Just twitching their heads. Checking things out. Pecking at crumbs. One has a single yellow feather.

Del made an impression. 6'3”. Keg belly, steel-toe boots, dirty jeans, faded Slayer shirt. 32ish. Those two demon wings tatooed on his shaved scalp and all the other hellish tats. Teeth stained grey. Left canine missing. Heavy silver decorating his hands. I ate bacon and eggs (sunny side up) and he downed beer. Told me about his two friends who scaled the 20 meter rafters at a Metallica concert. James Hetfield stopped the show and asked them to get down. One of those guys died last month. He was on the toilet. The other was named Chaos. Took off 2 years back. Nobody's heard from him since. “To each his own right man?” He looks down, eyes glaze over, slowly smiles a grin of somber nostalgia. “Ye. But I mes tha dam cuont. Ya know?”

Catch a girl staring at me from across the cafe. Plastic chain necklace, green jacket, pink skirt, black tights, orange timberland boots. 18ish. There's room for everyone in this wild world. Individuality keeps things interesting.

Coffee house keeps playing Beyonce songs. Time to go. Indian food tonight: chicken korma and naan bread: Mollin's favorite.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

[Day 24] Surf Lessons, Kids Are Funny, Solace

Back at the Auckland Hostel, in the lounge where I first met Eeda, sitting in a red and black beanbag chair. A wonderful breeze is floating in through the window, the skies are overcast with frequent spits of drizzle. It's 12:17pm. On the tele is NZ’s version of Jerry Springer. The topic is "I'll forgive you for sleeping with my friend if you take me back." Good gawd. Bradon's recounting the final adventures of South Island, post it soon. Prneela, Mollin, & Ahna flew out yesterday, Eeda this morning. Had quite the last hurrahs... I'm amidst a tough fight with an invisible monkey. He's sitting on my shoulders punching my skull. Bastard keeps ranting on about that double vodka-cranberry at 4am. Wrote the following on Oct. 21st...


The beach town of Raglan is situated beside a long massive bay— downtown consists of 4 quaint blocks. Most people walk around barefoot or sandaled rain or shine. Each shop is full of character: a rustic coffee house, a minimalist boutique, an island-themed pub/ burger/ smoothie place, a huge antique hotel, a street of surf shops called Volcom Lane, a fittingly run-down supermarket... complete with staff of short elderly people whose tender accents are often impossible to understand. The plump man working at the video store gave us warm chocolate chip cookies. Mmmmm. On that note, the employees of each shop are among the kindest Kiwis (native New Zealander) you'll meet. They glow when asked questions. They don't merely provide directions and what not, they reach out and offer advice like old friends.

10am. Drive to the beach in hopes of riding the world's longest left but it's blown out. Check out the La Jolla Shores equivelant instead: 3 miles of black sand all to yourselves! Teach the ladies how to surf and their personalities really shine. Mollin ignores most advice and just charges. It's quite entertaining. She's very sweet, classy, and polite, yet competitive as all hell. During athletics she curses worse than a sailor in the most adorable Swedish accent— her vocab in the water is out of control! By the day's end she's surfing like a pro. Ahna's surfed before and needed just a few pointers. Got it down quick. Prneella doesn't stop giggling and bouncing the entire day. You try to help her but get over it quick... your rented wetsuit is completely full of holes and your toes become frozen white raisins. You return to the warm sand and pass out in the sun. Brad takes over teaching and from the shore you wake to Prneella dropping in on inside breaks. Nice!

This morning you and Brad eat at a bakery/cafe which offers every food and drink imaginable: everything from butter-curry chicken, Hawaiian-style lamb burgers, and baked ham quiche, to fudge cookies, white chocolate pies, and apricot milkshakes. It's operated by a Vietnamese family who cant speak a lick of English, aside from the father who apparently doesn't know the word 'profit margin' because portions are totally excessive and dirt cheap. LOVE IT!

**Sidenote. Ahna just said that Yahtzee is essential to most Swedish girls' travel items. You tell her in the states even old people won't resort to playing the stupid game. Laughter. The girls enthusiastically begin a 17 game tournament. Dumbfounded. Whatever awesome Swedish chicks!

So you're eating at this cafe when all of a sudden a Kiwi boy no older than 4 runs in beaming a naive ear-to-ear grin. His brunette head is over-proportioned so his run is more of a bobbley zig zag, feet fly every which way. As he trots his curious eyes scan the display case. Chips. Gradually his frenzied flip-flop slows to a careful ninja prowl, then to a dramatic stare. Rigidly he stands at attention before the fried potato slices. Every muscle tenses and he begins to shake and cringe in overwhelming excitement. “Ouww maai gaawd! Ouwww maaiii gaawd! Ma theiv got cheeips!” Vigorously he claps and hops. “CHEEIPS! MA CHEEIPS! OUW MAI GAWD MA CHEEIPS!” His buddy runs over but doesn't stop in time and plows him down. Sees the chips. “OUW MAI GAWD WOW!”.... “Yea dear they've gout waurm cheips” The 1st boy jumps up and races over to the beverage case. “Oim thrstay.” Opens the door and touches everything. You approach the counter, request a glass of ice water, turn back and see another small kiwi boy, no older than 3 with strawberry-blond locks and red ink smeared across his cheeks. He wobbles to your table and does a little jig in front of your steaming Americano, sings nonsensical kiwi babble, reaches for the mug but Brad gets his attention just in time. The funny kid wobbles back to his mum. Good morning Raglan!

Return to the RV at 11am. It's the last day on the road trip. Driving this boat around the country was thrilling! Floored it as much as possible, felt like that hellish ice cream truck from the Twisted Metal video game, yelled things like "Yeah! Yeah!" and "Whooo wee!" Leave NZ in 6 days... a little bummed but it seems when any great chapter concludes, or begins, time slows and life grows— an uncanny glitter shines throughout everything. The mere presence of certain people transcends into profound experience. You notice— no rather you appreciate, so much more. Specifics become massive. Silence is louder than conversation.

The weather is much nicer now, however, a chilly spring breeze rushes in off the water. The campground is amazing. 3 long electric fields of grass. Swedes are stoked on more American football. Some are in town using the net. Ahna, Prneela, Brad, & you are enjoying the fact that there's no more sights to see, nowhere else to explore, nothing to plan, no worries.

One night back in the states I relaxed in my jacuzzi with a wise girl... she sipped her wine, looked at the stars, smiled and said “Just Livin.”

Ahna, Prneela, & Mallin getting pumped up



I cant understand your language!

Monday, October 20, 2008

[Day 23] Swemerican Mobile Disco



Lots of awesomeness occurred since the 12th; however, only 3 days remain with the Swedes... we'll spend the next few days celebrating our friendships... update ya'll when they fly out, or perhaps sooner. Wrote the following on the sleepy ferry ride.....


Just finished our tour of South Island. North Island Ferry check-in is at 9pm. We arrive 3 hours early and park adjacent to a playground in a harbor-front lot. A pillow fight quickly explodes inside the RV. Afterward, I grow sleepy and 3 of the girls tuck me into a nap. When I awake, they're cooking mac 'n' cheese, baked beans, plain noodles, and other ambrosias of travel. Opting out, I begin a pleasant conversation with my iPod: Ray LaMontagne (if you've never heard his amazing voice, or enjoy the calmer sounds of Jack Johnson, I highly recommend buying every album or attaining his music by other means :] He's my favorite southern acoustic/blues artist. Soothing, peaceful, awesome). Mr. LaMontagne encourages me to explore the playground. The most effective way to rock a tire-swing is to sink your bottom in the middle and kick your legs, in case you forgot like me. I swing for what seems like hours— just lying back and allowing the chains to float me around. I burn with the stars.

9pm. Vehicle-loading-dock's packed so we crack open a 5th of Smirnoff and sip heavy concoctions out of coffee mugs. We blast Brad's iPod on the RV stereo, dance down truck lanes, joke with a rubber beach ball, and meet many people in line... the streets are ours! We realize a group name: Swemerican Mobile Disco.

Our amazing crew is currently on the ferry back to North Island, lounging in a big room at the front of the boat. 12am. We have no idea where we're staying tonight, but diving headfirst into the unknown is among the most wonderful feelings. Brad is in the corner talking to Eeda & Ahna, who've been giggling for last 15 minutes. I'm in the center, writing with Prneella & Mollin, reflecting on the past week. Wow, it blew by so fast! We drove so much and did so much each day. Just bought a second cup of hot chocolate from the bartender. Tipped the kind bloke 2 dollars. He walked across the room and handed it back. Said “Don't worry about it mate.” People are quite different here.

The freedom of long term travel is completely foreign and profoundly chipping away at the sediment-covered word 'alive.' It's all so fresh and I'm still on the fence: half consumed in long-term goals, status, and material achievement, while the other is likened to a great awakening, as if the natural, real, innocent part of me has finally found a path amidst old fog. Simple details, like inhaling different scents, meditating on a spectrum of color in vast fields, feeling pebbles under your feet, or soft sand between your toes, or the breeze in your hair as you stick your head into highway wind, laugh-attacks with an amazing person you met just 2 weeks prior, hearing hard rain on the roof of your car, being cozy in blankets on a frigid day... little things are huge once again... a wondrous return to innocence... beautiful.

Life in the states was priceless. It shaped who we are and wouldn't be traded for the world. We have so many incredible friends and fascinating people to come home to. Before Bradon & I left, people said lots of things like “I can't believe you're doing that” or “Oh my gosh, I'm so proud of you guys. You will have done so much at such a young age.” All were received with holistic gratitude and sincere smiles. But, we simultaneously wondered why people rarely shared similar plans.

The most fantastic part of our journey is not the activities we will do, nor the sights we will see, but the transcendental sensations and interpersonal experiences that'll occur, integral is the fact that we are without responsibility—we're able to completely leave everything behind and immerse ourselves in the moment. The overwhelming exuberance and sense of freedom thereby felt is indescribable.

You all must travel extensively. And not merely tour, but leave everything behind and goooo.......

Ray LaMonagne - Jolene

Ray LaMontagne - Shelter

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

[Day 18] Queenstown Bungee and Debauchery!!!








Queenstown, New Zealand is a mecca of extreme sport. Most other towns are filled with coffee houses and retail shops, whereas here, adventure agencies and outdoor companies abound. Sky dive, canyon swing, jet boat, white water raft, luge... heaven on earth for the adrenaline junkie! It's home of the world's first bungee jump, as well as the world's best burger joint: Ferg Burger! On our road trip we had four separate people tell us that we MUST go to Ferg Burger! I'm a sucker for cool names and a good burger so that was the first thing on my mind when we arrive. I'm starving so I order the biggest on the menu, the 'Big Al': “Al delivers a double serving of prime New Zealand beef (½ pound), lashings of bacon, a whole lotta cheese, 2 eggs, beetroot, lettuce, tomato, relish and a big wad of aioli.” Massive! By far the biggest/ best burger I've ever had! I struggle to finish the whole thing, but I get a second wind and suck it down. I swore I was going into cardiac arrest after; felt like I had literally just eaten a small cow! Ferg Burger has become somewhat of a phenomenon in NZ for a number of reasons. First, they have the craziest burgers you will ever see. They have the most exotic combinations of stuff they put on their burgers, but it works out! Second, they are open until 5 am, which makes a lot of young, drunken party-goers more exited than your little sister on Christmas morning! Lastly, they serve beer...need I say more?

After our incredible Ferg Burger experience, we waddle over to the iSite (local information center) and plan out the next day. We scan the brochures and immediately spot The Nevis, a 440 ft bungee-jump! It's New Zealand's highest so we feel that doing any other would be like taking the easy way out. We look at it as a challenge, and accept even though we're all a bit scared! But none of us was as scared as Malin, who is absolutely terrified of heights! Malin decides to face one of her biggest fears and signs up, we're all so shocked/ proud of her! One by one we all handed our credit cards over to pay. And we are all looking at each other with worried and confused looks on our faces that scream out something along the lines of, “Why are we doing this again, and further more why I am paying a ridiculous amount of money to have the living daylights scared out of me?”. But with the final swipe of the last credit card, it was done...we were locked in and there was no turning back, it felt like I had just made a deal with the devil!

I wake up the next morning and realize that I all I dreamed about last night was bungee jumping. I wasn't having nightmares about jumping or anything; I was just bungee jumping repeatedly in my dreams. I think it was my mind's way of preparing for the extremely intimidating jump! I eat a small breakfast in case whatever's in my stomach before the jump decides to take the elevator to the top floor if you know what I mean?

We check into the bungee place at 11 am. Out of the blue Garrett blurts to the young English girl checking us in, “I heard if you do the jump naked it's free. Is this true?” The girl kindly informs him that this was once the case, but too many people were doing it naked to get a free jump and they had to retract the odd offer. Garrett being the insane kid he is says that he wants to do it naked anyways...haha! The girls can't believe their Swedish ears, “You are going to do it naked Garrett?” they exclaim in their priceless accents. Meanwhile I'm still laughing hysterically off to the side as a mental image of Garrett with nothing but bungee straps on pops into my head; man was I glad I didn't eat much, that image was would have been enough to make a big breakfast want to make an early exit...ewwwww!

We hop on the bus and discover it's a 45 minute ride to the jump site. Great, 45 minutes to sit on a bus and psyche myself out. That's just what I need! Right away I reach for my iPod to calm the nerves. My eyes zero in on Cool Calm Pete, a NYC hip hop artist with the laziest voice ever; I'd describe it as Slick Rick after three shots from a horse tranquilizer... perfect! 20 minutes into the ride, I notice a rustic bridge in the distance. As we get closer to it, the driver informs us that it's the world's first bungee jump; only 150 ft high yet still impressive to see the sport's birthplace. Someone jumps as we pass by; chills instantly spread throughout my body as I know I'm going to be in that person's shoes shortly!

The bus turns onto a dirt road and starts ascending this huge mountain. It struggles to climb the ridiculously steep incline; you see the 25 other passengers fidget a bit more as you get higher and closer to the jump, which is comforting as I'm getting pretty nervous. We finally arrive but all we see is a short building. We get strapped up by the employees of AJ Hackett, the bungee company, and Garrett informs them that he wants to do the bungee jump naked; I burst out in uncontrollable laughter once again and pretend I don't even know him...haha! We are instructed to go out to the lookout point for further instructions. The group walks out like cows going into a slaughter house; not one word is uttered until we see it, and all of a sudden all you hear is, “Oh my god”, “No way”, Holy #%*@, and some other four letter words I'm sure you can figure out.

The jump is made from of a tiny room suspended in an absolutely massive canyon, terrifying! We're given safety instructions that are peppered with comical relief to lighten the mood. Then we're organized into groups of 6 according to weight. Each group takes their turn riding an open gondola out to the room. I'm in the second group taken away to its demise; Garrett tries to videotape me getting hauled away but I really have nothing to say except, “I think I'm going to die!”

Soon enough the Swemerican Mobile Disco reunites in the suspended room. I'll never forget everyone's expressions; just blank stares in a desperate search for comfort. Then there was Garrett with his teal sweatshirt tied around his waist like he was about to do an audition for the movie 300, with nothing but his birthday suit underneath, wandering around and talking to everyone. Techno-trance was playing. Being such a huge fan of music in general, I found it very therapeutic. I just start dancing around to concentrate on the music and pump myself up, as opposed to thinking how high up we really were (there were two glass strips in the floor that you couldn't help but looking through). Anna was the first in our group to go; she did it like a champion; no hesitation, no nothing! I was so stoked for her and seeing her do it gave me a lot of confidence. My confidence just snow-balled from there; I began to get way more excited than scared!

I was the next one in our group to go; I did some poses for the tourist trap camera (it costs $45 for 5 pictures!), got briefed on how to pull the release cord to be pulled back up once it was over and before I knew it I was on the edge, face to face with the beast! All the excitement and confidence I had built up in the previous 20 minutes instantly diminished with one good look down into the seemingly endless canyon. I got so scared all of a sudden, I thought about backing out of the jump, but then the guy started counting down...5, 4, 3, 2,1 and I just put it all aside and went for it! The freefall was by far the most intense feeling I've ever had; it was terrifying but insanely fun at the same time! I felt the slight tension of the bungee cord and what a feeling that was; that meant I did it! The freefall was insane, but I was glad it was over! I breathed the biggest sigh of relief ever, once I did the first bounce up I reached for the release cord and it flipped me into an upright sitting position. As I was being hoisted up to the room my head was turning left and right, looking at the canyon I had just conquered out of pure joy; it was one of the greatest feelings of my life!

I was raised to the room full of travel companions and friends that were so excited for me, it was awesome! I told them how incredible it was and how pumped I was for the rest of them to do it, and then all of a sudden I yell out, “I want to do it again”! From there I stood by and encouraged everyone else in our crew; Pernilla didn't even flinch when she did hers, Garrett was just ridiculous and naked and then it was Malin's turn! She stepped up to the edge a bit scared as expected from anyone who is scared of heights. She let out a few war cries and boom she was out of sight! When she returned to the room she had the happiest look on her face and we all watched her bask in joy like proud parents. To watch someone overcome a major fear in their life right in front of your eyes is really special...Malin, if you're reading this, we just want to let you know you are incredible, skal!

Our group was all put on the same cart to be shipped back to the bungee base camp. The short ride went along with a soundtrack of screams, yells, laughter and of course some Swedish babble from the girls. The mood on the bus ride back was a completely different than the ride there. There was no more awkward silence, just laughs and cheers. I was still completely amped so I rode back literally bouncing up and down to my iPod... Crookers, Bloody Beetroots and friends to match the way I was feeling. I felt like I was on some sort of crazy drug; I wanted to jump out of my seat, run around screaming, punch stuff and have a few cocktails all at the same time...weird!

The first stop we made when we got back into town was the liquor store to get some party favors for the night; we were all so excited we had to go out and celebrate! We got back to the campervan, got ready, threw on some tunes, hung the disco balls and we were ready to rock! Anna and Pernilla taught us some crazy Swedish drinking game that I won't even try to explain, but it involves cards and calling people's bluffs. I'm not sure what it was called, but I named it “Blackout and Throw-up All Over Yourself” because it is completely ridiculous. You end up taking anywhere from 2-14 sips from your drink every time a card is flipped and there are 15 cards on the table. Needless to say things got pretty crazy/sloppy real quick!

We quickly consume all the alcohol at our makeshift pre-party and head out for the bars. The first stop was a place called Buffalo. It was dark with curious red lighting inside and the ground was littered with peanut shells. We quickly made our presence known in the bar to the dismay of everyone else. Ida hit some girl behind us with a peanut shell on accident and then I did the same thing to another girl somehow. Then Ida and Anna decide it’s a good idea to put peanuts down my shirt so we are all squirming around yelling within five minutes of being inside. We were that group of people in the bar that everyone hates, but we could care less; we were all so stoked on life from the bungee jump nothing could drag us down! To make things worse for everyone in the bar, but better for us, we bump into two other Swedish girls that our girls met on then ferry to the South Island...random! This only adds to the energy of our already hyper group; what are the odds that we would run into them? Their names are Anna and Kristin and they are from Gothemburg. They are both blond and blue eyed and fit the Swedish stereotype like none other. We all instantly hit it off and quickly invite our two new friends to join our whirlwind of drunken debauchery and they oblige. We leave Buffalo and storm down the silent streets of Queenstown like bats out of hell that drink vodka instead of blood. As if four Swedish girls weren't enough, now we have six, its almost unfair! Garrett and I just chuckle to each other, we're on cloud 9!

We stumble through the bar district, which is pretty quiet and people look at us like we have “Kick Me” signs on our backs or something; we very well could have at that point though and I don't think any of us would of known. Then Malin, who happens to be about 5'10”, decides to pick up a random construction cone and thrust it over her head and belt out an intense battle cry; everyone in the streets decides at that point that we are all insane! We ask around to try and find some good bars, but everyone says Wednesday nights are dead everywhere. Luckily we have a group big enough to make a party where ever we go. We're marching down the street determined to find a decent bar when the security guard from some jazz bar stops us and hands us drink tickets for $2 tap beers at his bar. The girls beg for a bunch of drink tickets and they get about ten each. Excited to use all the drink tickets we all run into the bar. There are about fifteen people in the whole place, but there is an amazing live band playing funk. We instantly make a drunken dance floor directly in front of the band; everyone in the whole place is pointing at us...I love it! Our amazing dance party lasts for a solid hour and we decide it's time to raise hell elsewhere. We end up at a place called Winnie's; its completely dead inside, but we make quite the entrance with our entourage and proceed to create yet another dance floor. Winnies had a roof that opened up which was really cool, but what's more is it started to sprinkle a bit. So here I was dancing the night away with 5 really good friends and two new ones to house music, inside a bar, but in the rain....what??? That just put the icing on the cake for me! Our euphoric night continued for about an hour more and we decided to call it a night, but not before one last stop at Ferg Burger. I had yet another best burger of my life and thus ended an insanely amazing day on that note...I love New Zealand!!!

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Check the soundtrack!

Everyone always asks me what I'm listening to... the following were the most memorable and significant songs of each moment. Most can be downloaded or heard via YouTube and other websites.

{Artist} – {Song} {[proposed genre... some of it's pretty unique so we make educated guesses]}

Sitting in LAX, waiting to embark on our ridiculous adventure:
1. Ghislain Poireir – Blazin' (Modeselektor Remix) [hard breakbeat electro]
2. The Toxic Avenger – Escape (Bloody Beatroots Remix) [hard ghetto-tech electro]


12 hour flight to Auckland:
1. Devendra Barnhart – Rejoicing in the Hands [folk]
2. Bebel Gilberto – All Around (Telefon Tel Aviv Mix) [chillout]
3. Joanna Newsom – Sawdust & Diamonds [folk]
4. Goldfrapp – Clowns [folk]


1st Morning in Auckland, in the shuttle to our hotel:
1. M83 – Lower Your Eyelids To Die With The Sun [avant garde]
2. Wiley – Wearing My Rolex [hip-house]


Headphones as I wrote the 1st blog post:
1. Deadmau5 – Faxing Berlin [tech-house]
2. One Plus One – No Pressure (Deadmau5 Remix) [tech-house]
3. Filter Freq – Dirty Sexy Club Music (Deadmau5 Remix) [tech-house]

Hungover on the morning of my birthday, grubbing a delicious breakfast in a Belgium pub, enjoying the best cappuccino of my life, and having sporadic conversations with my French waitress:
1. Art Pepper – Long Ago and Far Away [jazz]
2. Wes Montgomery – Besame Mucho (Take 2) [jazz]
3. Deadmau5 – Secondary Complications [tech-house]

1st night in the RV, sipping wine & chatting
1. Porno for Pyros – Pets [90s mellow rock]
2. Ben E. King – Stand By Me [r&b]
3. Righteous Brother – Unchained Melody [r&b soul]
4. I Am Kloot – Proof [indie chillout]

5. Kings of Convenience ft. Feist – Know How [indie chillout]


Luging
1. Le Castlevania – Trouble In Daylight (LA Riots remix) [electro]
2. Was (Not Was) – Walk the Dinosaur (Paul Devro Remix) [baltimore club]
3. Adam Sky vs. Mark Stewart – We Are All Prostitutes (Crookers remix) [ghetto-tech electro]


Biking through Hawke's Bay Wine Country:
1. Andrew Bird – Plasticities [indie]
2. Andrew Bird – Fiery Crash [indie]
3. Broken Social Scene – Windsurfing Nation [indie]
4. Broken Social Scene – 7/4 Shorline [indie]

5. Junior Kimbrough – Release Me [blues]
6. Junior Kimbrough – All Night Long [blues]
7. Junior Kimbrough – Most Things Haven't Worked Out [blues]
8. Junior Kimbrough – Done Got Old [blues]


On our way up Te Mata Mountain:
1. Kaiser Chiefs – Oh My God [indie rock]


NZ radio is garbage. It airs every color of Top40: some rap, lots of trite Pop Punk and Emo Rock, scores of aweful 'classic hits'. The girls brought the new Coldplay CD so we played it about 11 times. I actually enjoyed it the first 7, especially the first track. But by day 3 Brado and I splurged on an iTrip. First song played:
Don Rimini – Let Me Back Up (Crookers Remix) [hard ghetto-tech]



Today Brad showed me the most profound hip-hop I've heard in a while:
1. Murs - A Friend's Blues
2. Adeem – Sock Drawer Blues
3. Cyne - First Person
4. Grouch – God Bless the Elephant

5 more dope song you should here:
1. Murs & Slug – Morris Day [hip-hop]
2. Beastie Boys - Sabrosa [70s porn funk]
3. Bill Withers - Kissing My Love [funk]
4. Mark Rae ft. Veba - Lavish (Deadbeats Remix) [groovey chillout]
5. Gaz Nevada - I.C. Love Affair [italo disco]

[Day 17] LIFE - IS - BEAUTIFUL



Wow it's day 17 already! Our Apologies for the extensive delay. We tried to access the internet in a bunch of towns, but everywhere we went the connection was either annoyingly slow or insultingly expensive... we maintained this journal on our laptop. Furthermore, traveling the country RV-style with 4 Swedish girls has been very exiting... get into that later :)

**Side Note: Swedish is a strange language. It often sounds like a vague mix of German & Japanese with occasional hints of Russian, and they use all sorts of weird letters. That said, we'll write their names as they sound rather than use the correct spelling.

Today is Tuesday, October 14. It's 2:45pm in NZ's extreme sport epicenter and 2nd largest city: Queenstown. We finally found a good internet cafe....

Monday, October 13, 2008

[Day 16] Fox Glacier














Wandering with open eyes and simple curiosity allows you to discover a much richer pleasure—the simple feeling of possibility humming in every direction as you move from place to place. -Rolf Potts

New Zealand has two glaciers that you can take guided hikes on and they are both on the south island. The most well known is Franz Joseph, from what we hear it is the more touristy one, thus more expensive. The second is Fox Glacier, and from what we gathered from talking to a bunch of people back in Aukland, is the better of the two. Fox is an actual town in New Zealand. The population hovers around 200, 60 of which work for the glacier tour company. The rest work in local restaurants, bars, hotels, etc. that support all the 200,000 tourists that go through the tiny city each year. It is truly a town that would not exist if it weren't for the spectacular glacier 5 minutes away.

The glacier itself is a sight to see. It lies in a lush valley. Massive cliffs soar on either side, striped in skinny waterfalls. Snow-capped mountains lie in the background to complete the amazing picture that is Fox Glacier. The glacier appears to be crawling down the valley at a snails pace, which it is... the guide told us it advances a mere 20 centimeters per day. To me, the glacier is a bit of a mystery because the area surrounding it is forest-like terrain, not snow, and not very cold. But regardless, it is there and we took full advantage of its mysterious existence.

After being fitted with wool sox and boots by our guides Chris and Passang a.k.a. “Sherpa”, we take the short 5 minute bus ride. Before we know it we're on the glacier trail. The hike is both exciting and invigorating! The glacier is this magnificent piece of ice that has been there for hundreds of years, if not thousands, and there we were about to explore it. Not many people get this opportunity!

Within the first few minutes of being on the glacier we walk through narrow halls of ice two feet wide and ten feet tall...spectacular! One of the coolest things about doing a full day hike, as opposed to a half day, is there is no set path. The guides pretty much play it by ear and wander around looking for cool stuff to show you, all the while carving out steps with axes as they lead you on your unique trip. We crawl through ice caves, throw ice chunks down 30 meter (90ft) crevis', have a few glacier dance parties, and take many pictures. Garrett dropped his walking stick down a pretty deep crevis. His puzzling yet hilarious explanation: “I don't know what happened, my boot just kicked the stick!"

So a few days before we did the hike, Garrett got the brilliant idea to strip off all of his clothes and swim in a pool on the glacier, and he couldn't have been more stoked on the idea! So throughout the hike we all had our eyes peeled for a deep enough pool for the crazy kid to jump in, as we all naturally wanted to see it happen. We had a few candidates throughout the day, but couldn't find a lake suitable for Garrett's naked white ass to grace his presence with. But on our walk back to the bus following our all day hike we come around a bend and an there it is, an electric green lake with GARRETT written all over it! Garrett B-lines it to the shore, strips down to his boxers and dives right in! The pool was not actually on the glacier, but it was surrounded by huge blocks of ice, and the bottom was ice, so the water was still damn cold!

All and all, the Fox Glacier hike was a completely unique experience that I will never forget, and I would say it is a must for anyone visiting the South Island of New Zealand…CHEERS!!!

Sunday, October 12, 2008

[Days 14-15] Ever Had An Eyegasm?

From Napier we roll down to port city Wellington, take a ferry to South Island, head over to nearby Nelson, go out for a solid dinner, and crash for the night.

Morning arrives. We go to an internet cafe for emails etc. but prices are ridiculous. Over it. Stock up on groceries and begin the 8 hr drive down to Fox Glacier.

Everyone on North Island said South Island landscape is heavenly... WOW were they right. Brad, in a voice of satori awe: “I think my eyes just threw up because this is so sic.” He rambles on about the overwhelming serenity. I'm at a lost for words the whole way, aside from the constant outpour of "Woah!" "Phew!" "Oh My Gosh!" "This is it!" and "Look at that!"

... doesn't give the view justice AT ALL but gives you an idea

Snowcapped mountains peak over every horizon. Distant huge hills are in every direction, wrapped in blankets of ancient trees and brilliant grass. The immense valleys between are sheathed in breathtaking pastures, which are speckled with sparse groups of sheep, cattle, and deer. We drive over bridges and see large herds trotting on white-rock riverbeds... Lion King meets Lord of the Rings. We drive by fields and spook farm animals, they run and jump and kick away. The curvy 2-lane highway is lined with neon green shrubbery.

On that note, heart-felt impressions consequent to the rich hues in the countryside are truly indescribable. Prior to this trip, we often asked people about their adventures. “Man, you just gotta go” they would say. Now we comprehend what they meant. Life here is an Ansel Adams photograph, and that's an understatement.

At sunset we're on the coast. We pass by a lake and stop at for a stretch


During those 8 blissful hours we pass through just 3 towns, each of which is a miniature Leucadia. The rest is very rural farmland and we see just 4 people walking along the highway:

1.A petite mother pushing a stroller. Olive skin, long black hair, 50ish, straight out of Fiddler on the Roof. Exudes humble confidence; walks with the peaceful strength of someone weathered.

2.A young girl in a red shirt and jeans. Short black hair flips and flops as she swings a white beach bucket and skips along the shoulder. Her freckled pale face is pouting curiously hard.

3.An enormous girl no older than 13. Bradon spots her first. Says she's a combination of pre-teen Rosie O'Donnell and Miss Piggy. Personally, she's more of an awkward adolescent American Gladiator. She's wears a sky blue jersey, black shorts, royal blue shin-guards, and red soccer kleets. Walks like a marine. As we drive past she scowls a confused pitbull glare.

4.Middle-aged woman, 5'3”, 190 lbs. Wears a white tank top and black spandex leggings. Highlighted brunette mullet flows in the wind. She is mowing a grass lawn that is literally adjacent to the highway, and though she squints into reddening sun light, she mows with such ardent enthusiasm, like a Japanese person competing in karaoke tournament on their birthday night.

.......... wish I could make this stuff up!

We're becoming a family; each day we grow more comfortable around one another. Our girls kick ass! ...always laughing, always singing, always joking and dancing. They use the most random English expressions: “Ooo la la” ; “Woop Woop” ; “Hoo Hoo” ; “Uua Uua”. Easy going, clean, adventurous, and cute... the perfect travel companions!

Check 'em out on Facebook: Pernilla Lonnborg, Ida Freiholtz, Malin Hellstrom, Anna Josefsson

Learning Swedish is extremely difficult. The language is different to the extent that it's like learning to hop on one foot backwards, blindfolded, and drunk. Here's what I got so far (written as pronounced... they use crazy letters)
Good__Bra; Thank you__Tck; Happy__Glod; Beautiful__Vaquert; 1, 2, 3__Ett, Tuoua, Tree; Beer_Uurl; Listen to this song it's awesome!_Leussna poa den harr loatun den arrgrim; I love you_ Yag oalskar dey.

Today was naked & insane. Tonight will be sloppy. Tomorrow’s likely involve lighting couches on fire. Talk to you soon! Sweet as & happy days mate!









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af-GCGBiZUY

Friday, October 10, 2008

[Day 12-13] Grape Juice, Gorgeous Views, & Baby Bunnies

From Rotorua you cruise to NZ wine country: Hawke's Bay, located just outside the beach town of Napier. The trip is absolutely stunning as scenery here is magnificent and never gets old. Sunshine finally smiles down and reminds you of nature's vibrancy.

While driving you accidentally cut a car off. Immediately a scowling Maori boy no older than 5 sticks his torso out the window and flips you the bird! Brad & you bust up. They pull into the other lane, speed up and see you both laughing. In the passenger seat is another boy around the age of 8. His eyes become half-dollar coins as he also gives you the finger! You're in tears. The driving mother turns around to face you. A cigarette dangles from her lips as she shakes her fist and yells though the car's back window. This adorable family continues expressing such kind sentiments as they turn away at the intersection. Oh you crazy little locals! Lol.

Friends at the Auckland hostel recommended a bicycle winery tour... wine-tasting on bikes in the New Zealand countryside? Count it! You begin to realize that anything + 4 great Swedish girls sounds really cool. Lol. Anyways, you all rent bikes from a sheep herder and peddle a good 7 miles or so throughout the region. It's Springtime. Travel within thriving farms and lush orchards, down dusty old roads bordering blossoming gardens and never-ending vineyards. Ride between the grapevines, immerse yourself in the landscape. Beautiful. You try to capture the moment on video, slam into a post, and fly off your damn bike. Brad just laughs and speeds by. “YOU-ARE-AN-IDIOT!” he shouts. Haha whatever bro. I rode my bike between winery grapevines.



You all learn about the local wine industry, which predominately bottles Bordeaux blends, syrah, pinot gris, chardonnay, and viognier. You meet blissful orchard owners and experience the countryside rather than merely observe it from the windows of your cozy RV.

Lunch happens at the base of a huge hill. Feeling energized, 5 of you hike to the top, from which you experience a spectacular view of the entire region and 13 peculiar lanes of vine. Run down the middle lane. At the end you meet Carlton the farmer. He informs you that 4 baby bunnies are sleeping nearby and you can keep them all since they're a pest. WHAT!? You jog over and pick up these fantastically adorable little creatures (the tikes can't even open their eyes yet!) Bring 'em to back the group... everyone flips out and spends half an hour engrossed in the moment, playing and cuddling with 'em. Eventually you all return from dreamland and replace the furballs. Walk down the hill and continue the tipsy trek.

It's 4pm. Everyone returns to homebase and you chat it up with Mary the pretty rental girl. She graduated from nursing school the day prior and is in a glorious mood. Asks if you've checked out the Te Mata lookout point in Hastings (next town over). Nope. She insists on leading you all there. WHY NOT?! Everyone piles into the RV and drives the windy road up to the summit of Te Mata. You relax in the bed in the the back, open the windows, stick your head outside and smell the air. Suddenly the trees disappear and you're there. The view is among the most incredible things you've seen. Flowing mountains, a vast ocean, rivers, booming green grass, perfect view of PGA's #1 golf course (don't golf... forget the name... Mary said it was #1). It is entrancing. The moment fills with importance as you realize that pictures don't do the experience justice....













Wednesday, October 8, 2008

[Days 10-11] Stench, Debauchery, Adrenaline

Rotorua is known for awesome geo-thermal hot-springs... they're a trip to see but the steam is full of sulfur and shrouds the city in the disgusting smell of rotten egg... and it comes in whiffs! You'll be walking down the street, enjoying the quaint little town and it's natural wonders, when all of a sudden a revolting gust of ass will slap you right in the face. SO BITTERSWEET! As the group checks out some hot-springs, the weather transcends from mellow rain to super gnarly downpour. Time to find a holiday park (upscale campground). We find one that provides free thermal spas (small pools filled with naturally-heated and scentless mineral water) Free natural spa, in freezing rain, with 4 fantastic Swedes. NICE! We drive straight to the liquor store and stock up.

8pm. RV is parked, clothes come off, bottles are opened, and we run off in a shivering shuffle to the spas. Needless to say things get out of hand. We get back at 11 and San Diego-style debauchery is in full effect. People are wrestling, yelling, Bradon and Ahna go out into the storm and Melbourne Shuffle. Some how an empty box of Speight's Ale finds Brad's head & he starts dancing like a techno-gimp... We've got quite the group!

-sorry about the angle

**Side note, Prneella just told me, right now, as I right this, that tomorrow we're jumping into an ice water pool on Fox Glacier together. I'm very very anxious. That water is going to be really really cold. Like ice cold. Literally. Frick'n Swedes. Haha this is ridiculous. Wish you all were here with us!!

The next morning we wake to heavy wind warnings on the PA. Guy camping next to us complains that a massive tree might fall on his tent. WOAH! Still full of luster, we decide that luging down expansive hills is the wildest thing to do amidst heavy wind. Off we go! Luging is essentially riding a small plastic cart down steep cement roads. We're not sure what to expect as most people there are between the ages of 8 and 15. It ends up being identical to the Super Mario Cart video game, but with 4 Swedish girls instead of King Kooba, Toad, that annoying Princess. Incredible surprise!

- again, 'my bad' on the angle

The advanced track is especially crazy... almost vertical hills, insane turns, dangerously fast straight aways, and a even a point to catch air. On the first run I ride a wicked straight away standing up. I surf that crazy little cart for about 30 ft then fly over my handle bars and plow head first into cement. Brad, instead of stopping to see if I'm alright, just laughs and speeds by. “YOU-ARE-AN-IDIOT!” he shouts. Whatever bro, I SURFED on my Super Mario Cart. UH! The group races all day and has a priceless time.

The crazy wind never arrives. We return to that rocking holiday park and request another night. The receptionist kindly informs us that we received countless complaints and must find another campground. Haha so it goes! We cruise throughout the breathtaking hills and come across another great park, located on the beach of Blue Lake—a massive body of water that glows vibrant aqua in the sun! Adjacent is Green Lake—same thing but forest green!

We wake to gentle rain and the taste of adrenaline still on our tongues. We race to the local iSite. iSites are agencies that provide free activity & accomodation info. They're located in almost every Aussie & NZ town. The day's thrills are booked.

SLEDGING!!! Sledging originated in NZ back in the 80s. Simply put, you ride a plastic pseudo-bodyboard down white-water rapids. The moment we see the brochure we realize it's a must. To top off our excitement, the iSite lady says people tend to return “really shaken up”... perrrrrrrrfect! The girls are amp'd on some mud bath thing, so they jump in a shuttle and head out. We throw on crazy electro in the RV & pound red bulls.

We arrive. Surfer-esque instructors inform us that we're the only Sledgers for the day, but there are 16 rafters (the same river is used for both activities).... cool yet intimidating! After a brief safety instruction we find ourselves traversing ancient Maori tunnels toward the river. The entry point is beneath a 6 meter waterfall and we're suddenly face to face with roaring rapids. Fear and anxiety whisper in the breezes... the water is so powerful that it pretty much does whatever it wants with you... an eerie idea! But we follow the guides instructions and quickly get the hang of things. We blast down the river, stopping just twice to recite Maori prayer, catch our breathes, and enjoy the wondrous scenery. The river runs through a temperate rain forest... brilliant green vines and high thriving branches reach out over the boulder lined bank, everything glows as soft rain glistens in the afternoon light. MIND-NUMBING! We reach the final rapid after 45 thrilling minutes. The guides teach us how to situate ourselves in the current to surf it! Brad busts a barrel roll. I try to do the same but end up getting a mouth full of river water. Lol.

It was a perfect length of time... sledging required a lot of counter-current kicking and after 5 fierce rapids our legs were shot. But so worth it! Both of us agree it was easily one of the coolest things we've ever done, and something unavailable in most places around the globe!

That afternoon we drove to Taupo, a small town half-way to our next destination. Checked out Huka Falls.. incredible but a storm hit right away! Next day was sunny so we taught American Football to the Swedes. HILARIOUS!

... 'my bad' on the angle
Everyone decided to make it a drinking game: touchdown = other team pounds alcohol… we lasted 30 minutes