[Days 85 - 87] Sunrise Volcano Hike (Mt. Batur)

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Mt. Batur


Knock, knock... bang, bang... it's 3 am and our guide is pestering us to hurry up and get ready, he's obviously in his element as he does this 4 times a week. We signed up for an overpriced sunrise hike to the top of the lakeside volcano, Mt. Batur, the previous day, and now it was game-time. Arms are a bit sore from yesterdays river rafting, but the legs are ready for war. We pile into the tiny white van and meet the two others who would be doing the hike with us. Xan, Canadian born in China, but who lives and works in New York...??? and John, a quiet skinny Swiss dude with harsh accent.

After the standard travel conversation (where are you from? where have you been? what do you do at home? where are you going next? whats your name? etc, etc.) we come to find out we paid $20 more for the hike than them... DAMNIT! But I guess it serves us right, we didn't shop around and just paid for the hike at our hotel, another travel lesson learned.

We unload the van at the base of the volcano and are greeted by 2 kids who I would guess are about 17 years old. I was a bit confused and thought maybe they were the guides sons or something. As soon as we start our hike the kids start hitting me with the standard Bali sales pitch. First they ask you where you are from, then they ask what your name is, then they inquire if this is your first time in Bali. They pretty much try to become your friend so when they offer whatever it is they are selling it is much harder to bargain or say no. I learned this strategy very quickly in my first day shopping in Kuta, so I knew something was up and noticed they were wearing backpacks. I asked what was inside and they simply replied “Coca-Cola.”!

Puzzled by the reply I asked why they were carrying backpacks of Coca-Cola; one smurked back as he said,”we follow you up mountain and you buy Coke from us when you thirsty at top.”! I had to know how much these kids were charging for these specials cokes; 20,000R was the going rate... under US$2! I spread the word quickly to the rest of the group and asked if they wanted to buy some Coke at the top, but everyone replied that they couldn't buy any because they didn't bring any money. I kindly told the kids not to waste their time following us up the mountain because none of us had any money to give; I guess it's better they found out at the beginning than the end.

As they walked away it really started to settle just what these high school students were doing. They greeted us at 4am, meaning they probably got up at 2 or 3, then lugged their backpacks full of school supplies, and Coke, to the volcano. Then they had to act interested in some dumb tourists at a time in the morning that I might not be able to act interested in Pamela Anderson for god sakes! Then, if things went accordingly, they would make the exhausting 2hr hike up the steep volcano wearing torn up shoes. Once at the top, they would sell 1 Coke on a bad day, maybe 3 on an amazing day; therefore racking in anywhere between US$1-$6 (but they had to buy the Cokes, for about 50 cents a piece). After the sale they would make the treck down the hill and walk to school, then start their day just like any American High School student. Quite the reality check huh? It's amazing the lengths some people will go to in order to earn a dollar, we are so lucky to be born where we are, but its so easy to forget sometimes.

I ran to catch up with the group after trying to let the kids down as easy as possible and ensued our climb. From what I could tell from the dimly lit flashlights, the terrain started out as your normal woodland/forest with pine-trees and shrubs everywhere. Within a half-hour we started stumbling upon hints of lava rock; a subtle reminder of the vast fury this sleeping giant could unleash at any moment. Soon enough, we were climbing on pure lava rock and a bit of dirt. The faintest slip could end the morning early for any unlucky contestant. After hking another forty minutes, I could see the top of the mountain which only fueled my exhausted legs. The guide was going too slow for my liking so I took the lead of the pack, while Garrett stayed back and helped out Xuan like a true gentleman.

All of a sudden I look up and there is another kid with a backpack offering his hand to me for help. I kindly decline as I know what he is selling. He begins walking with me, and at this point I'm in no mood for chatter, all I want is to be at the top of the mountain for sunrise. I shell out my last 20,000R for one of his Cokes. Strangly enough, it was quite comforting to have a piece of corporate America with me in the middle of nowhere; who said advertising doesnt work?

The top of the mountain didn't seem to be getting much closer, no matter how much I jogged. My calves screamed in pain with ever step and I could feel blisters forming on both heels, but this only made me want it more! The pain only lasted another 10 minutes, and at last I could see the home stretch.

Once at the top I took a few minutes to catch my breathe as I stared into the clouds that I was now eye-level with. Within a few minutes the rest of the crew joined me one by one. Hugs were awarded and we stared in amazement at the gorgeous view we had all worked so hard for. It was now time for a bit of well earned breakfast. On the menu was bread, banana, and mountain cooked eggs! Our tour guide literally buried whole eggs in the mountainside and the heat of the crater hard-boiled them in minutes!





After some great photo ops we descended the otherside, which seemed like a different planet— it was ashy and lifeless due to an eruption that took place less than a decade ago! Fog rolled in over the dinjy-ash surface and we could hardly see a metre ahead of us at one point. It was quite an eerie feeling, especially with the fog now in the equation! Needless to say we didn't stick around there long.

We raced down the mountain in thick dirt, taking exaggerated leaps to get airborn (the trail shoes bought at Adventure-16 saved our ankles!). From the bottom we stared back at our conquered giant— an amazing feeling to say the least. NEXT!!!