Cape Tribulation is magical. Like a miniature Kuai with less people; a puny town with crocodiles looming in nearby creak-beds (too far to be a threat). It's two hours into Daintree National Park, which is believed to be earth's original Rainforest. Daintree is home to 13 of the 19 primal plant species. Thus, scientists presume that Daintree was the Rainforest of Pangea. A trippy idea to realize when you're there.
Dee the busdriver is a curly thirty something. Her face is painted only by God's love. Her tounge is studded. She tells us about the ancient Casowary bird. It eats all the fruit of the region; and, the seeds of the trees rely on it's digestive juices for fertilization. It's foundation of the forest. It's bright blue and related to the Ostriche. It has a single retractable talon that can slice a human wide open, though it's never happened. “Yeah, they're a real fuck off bird.” Why do you call it that? “Cause when ya see the freaky thing you say fuck off!” We make a few stops at look out points. One has a great view of Snapper Island, which is where Steve Irwin was stabbed by a sting ray (may he rest in peace).
[The following were taken on our way to Cape Trib]
Snapper Island
They named this 2.5 metre croc Shooter
Cape Tribulation 'town' consists of 3 buildings: pharmacy, small market, and PK's Backpacker resort. Everyone at PK's is between 19 and 30, and comes from all over the world. At night people drink, play pool, twirl fire, have drum circles, and stargaze on the endless vacant beach.
On the first day, we did diffreent things. The rest of the trip was lounging around paradise, doing whatever you wanted (eat something, perhaps take a nap, perhaps read a book, whatever)
the girls who work here are fire twirlers, and they're REALLY GOOD!
sunrise
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Garrett's 1st morning.
Gruh. The red razor cell phone I borrowed from Scottish Lisa last night goes off for the 3rd time. It's 8:15am. 15 minutes. Can't hit snooze anymore. Slept in board shorts—no shower: yesterday's sea salt still pebbles my skin—souvenirs from that incredible swim. Today's will be better... the Rum Runner will rush me to the reef. 10 minutes.
Short groggy shamble to the front office. “Garrett Mincks are ya?” That's right! “Where've ya been hun the bus' already been by twice!” No way my ticket says 830am. “Let me see.... Right here: 8am.” Damnit! There's no way! He's taking me to the Great Barrier Reef! “He's gone off for anotha pick up. Stand near the road and flag him down.”
I climb onto the rickety white bus. The driver is probably 45 but looks much older; a mountain-man beachbum; shoeless, tattered jeans, tattered shirt; his teeth are chipped, jagged, and black; his hair's matted and blond. He's peaceful and very kind. He's in tune with nature. Calmly he drives to the loading dock.
I walk out to the dingy, which buzzes over to the twin hull sail boat called Rum Runner. Engine revs up and we begin the 45 minute trip to the reef. No clouds over the water. No wind, just gentle breaths of ocean air. Crew says it's the best weather they've had in over 90 days!
We set sail. Divemaster Richie conducts a scuba briefing and before you know it we're at the reef. Anchor drops and I find myself on the bow feeling like a pirate. The air truly is ideal. A tender breeze of perfection, just enough to chill the beads of sweat bubbling on my bronzing skin. I'm standing on the bridge between hulls. My feet are planted on a grating of diamond-shaped holes, through which I see sun reflections strobing on the enchanting aqua.
Australia awaits on the distant left. It's 10am and that's where the sun is. Low clouds softly hat the continent. Ocean sky is crisp and bald. Water is a tropical hue with vast dark spots, like cow hide, signals of the colorful landscape below. Sparse groups of mushy whitecaps crumble in every direction.
½ a Km away is a small island where 5 people sunbathe. If you were to take a gelatin letter 'P', and you use your teeth to hold the upper left corner, and then stretch it straight out like melting cheese, you would have the shape of that island—the sunbathers bask in the elongated loop. A white diveboat is anchored right offshore, between us and the loop. A bunch of heads just popped out of the water. They look like tan beachballs floating with the swells. There are 4 more boats on the reef. 3 are too far to distinguish past little white dots. The fourth is equally distant, however it's huge. Small cruise ship? Massive yacht?
The contrast of the horizon is curious in it's signaling of an infinite curve. I feel my energy flying over as I fantasize what lies beyond: no images manifest, just dreamy senses. Fountains are heard over the idle engine—diving's just begun. A deckhand informs me that I'm up in 10 minutes. This sparky blond also tells me that she's from Stockton, California. Came here on holiday and never went home. I don't blame ya sweetheart.
Scubadiving is surreal and I can't articulate it for you so just do it.
It's also kinda interesting to watch, especially when the weather is as perfect as it is right now. Here I am, back on the bow of the boat, lounging in the sun, enjoying this incredible view (a view that would have me in tears if I wasn't so full from that excellent lunch), allowing my mind to blank out as I get lost in the shoreline. Suddenly, 8 fountains balloop out of the depths. Time slows. I re-live that life-changing experience of 15 minutes ago... time slows; focus my breath; observe the sun; in the moment; short-term memory overcomes reality.
Wow. Scuba rocks.
[all the pics I took were on a waterproof disposable camera... haven't used it up yet]
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Brado's 1st morning.
I wake up abruptly to a strong knock on the dorm room door, I don't know where I am and it feels as if I got hit by a truck last night. I pop up hung over as all hell (the previous night's bondfire got a bit out of control, but I did see the most beautiful stars ever, I saw eight shooting stars; thats how clear it was!) and find my Canadian friend Mike and English friend Jeff whom I met on the bus to Cape Tribulation. They ask if I want to rent bikes with them and ride to a near by watering hole deep in the rain forest and I figure why not, even though I know biking isn't the best thing for a hangover. We stroll over to the nearby Chemist (aka Pharmacy) and pick out our bikes. A detour is in order on the way as we decide it necessary to stop of at the beach and ride on the sand just because we can. The horseshoe, practically baron beach it absolutely gorgeous! The rain forest meets the vanilla sand and the sun is shining, man Im glad I got out of bed!
After our brief beach ride we get back onto the trail to our destination. The pavment quickly turns into a gravel/dirt road. The road is lined with full-on lush green rain forest, accompanied by the type of animal sounds you hear on those rainforest cd's you can buy that are supposed to help put you to sleep. Its a muggy day and I begin to sweat prefusely, I rip off my singlet (Aussie for tank-top) and keep treckin! The road to the watering hole is virtually all uphill as I soon find out, I was not expecting this at all! It doesn't help that Im out of shape either. My legs literally feel like they are on fire, but luckily Im not the only one struggling; I peer back and see that Mike and Jeff are having a hell of a time too, my ego feels a little better!
About half way through the ride I literally cant bike up the hills anymore and I have to get off my bike and walk the hills, but Mike and Jeff are right there with me, complaining the whole time too...haha! I begin wondering how in the world are we going to make it home? I feel like Im on some reality tv show where they set tourists up in ridiculous situations that make them think they are going to die, because at one point I literally felt this way. But I had come this far, there was no way I was going to turn back now so me and the boys kept on going. Things got worse before they got better, but eventually we arrived to at a stream that meant we were close to the watering hole. We all make a mad dash to the fresh-water as we are all drenched head to toe in sweat. The water is not deep at all, but as I exited the water I become very thankful for this fact. A yellow sign catches my eye and to my surprise I read that crocodiles inhabit the stream I was just in....holy crap! Due to the shallowness of the water and how slow crocodiles move, I was in no real danger because I would have seen one coming for me, but the thought of being in the same water as crocodiles still sent chills down my spine!
We take a quick look at our map and find that we have to go on foot now to the watering hole, so we lock up our bikes and start marching. The walk is a delightful ten minute treck through absolutely stunning rain forest. Walking in this environment is no longer a chore, its a joy! Crazy animals everywhere, curious trees and plants that I have never seen before, its like stepping into a whole new world. Soon we arrive at the watering hole and what do you know, it is stunning as well! Im not even going to try and describe it, Ill let the pictures do the talking. We all swim around in the water for about an hour, looking around in complete awe the whole time. its so serene and beautiful its unreal; and to make it even better there is a twenty foot cliff to jump off which provides us with entertainment the entire hour.
Our bikes are due back in an hour so we part ways with this spectacular place that we worked so hard to get to; although we could have probably spent the remainder of our day there. The ride back was MUCH more forgiving than the ride there. It took us about an hour to get there, and only twenty minutes to get home...haha! About five minutes from home we run into these three Irish nurses that we hung out with the night before. They are on bikes as well and tell us that they are going to the same watering hole we just got back from. We warn them that it is a rough ride there, but worth it in the end (Im actually laughing to myself, saying “you are screwed!” under my breathe). Later that night I see them and ask how the ride was and one exlaims, “It nearly killed us, we didnt even make it”! I break out in laughter as I know their pain! I tell them that the watering hole wasnt that cool anyways to make them feel better, but I know the truth and couldn't be happier that I charged through the exhaustion and pain to see such a spectacular place!
[got pics of this but it's time to go party.. upload em soon enough]
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