[Day 40] Cape Trap

Calexico - Slowness


Last day at Cape Tribulation. Completely relaxed and reflecting on whatever. First & foremost the dreams. I'm experiencing the most vivid dreams. We're talking out-of-body experiences. The kind that when you wake up you feel more THERE than here. VIVID. Transcending to another realm. Or perhaps I dunno. I cannot comprehend what's going on. All things feel more real than before; like life's getting rewired or something. The mornings aren't groggy, rather disconnected.
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I lost my wallet the day of the reef dive. Someone turned it into the front desk but took the $225 cash. Found out right when I got back— hellish icing to a magnificent cake; sulked at the smoking patio near the pool; watched two syblings interact while amidst my dejection. Preschool sister and an elementary brother. Sister played poolside with a pink soccerball and the brother pretended to be Hercules...

She climbs out and runs over to him. She smiles and screams “PLAY!” She tosses the ball, but instead of catching it, he punches it hard. The ball fires back and pelts her in the stomach. She's emotionally hurt by his denial, physically hurt by his relative strength. Her face droops as she turns toward the pool. Her eyes are struck by evening sun; but, rather than squint they grow! She grins and jumps in, hugging water throughout the plunge. She bops up laughing and wipes the hair from her face, dog-paddles over to the side, hoists herself out, plants her feet, and does a frantic flip back in.

When life punches your balls, you gotta turn left and see the beauty of it all. Front-flip a smile back into it. Come up smiling truth and wipe away whatever the hell's blocking the sunshine.
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I'm at a table on the veranda. An English lady just sat down with a small salad and a large cola. Late 30s, plump, forest green sun hat, soccer mom blouse, obvious dentures; traveling Oz for 4 weeks. We talk about the world and she quickly states her regret for not doing a trip similar to mine during her youth. Well, at least you're doing it now right? “Ya dat's true. Suppose you gotta live for today uh?”

And that's how conversation is with travelers. Most are from Europe. The single-track living of most Americans still pains me. Last night there were those ambitious young Irishmen at the bonfire. They'd been traveling for so long. Also there was Meg, the English botanist, who journeyed from Belrin to Mongolia on the trans-siberian railway. She told fascinating stories. Taught us Mongolian drinking games and how to tell Mongolians apart from other Asians (their traditional attire, wind-burned skin, and regular drinking). Mongolians drink fermented horse milk out of bowls. Meg said it's really alright, but the cottaged lumps at the bottom, as well as the sharp aftertaste, are quite shitty. The key is to drink it fast. Said it really gets you going. Good gawd. She said the hangover's ripe. Thanks anyway Mongolians.

And that's how conversation is with travelers! Irish Laura has $20 to her name. Terry the weathered/ half-deaf mountain man was kind enough to let her stay at his camp until she gets on her feet with a job and what not. “When I was in Thailand, some Welch asshole robbed all my money on a bus. I had nothing. If I can get through that I can get through anything. Never had a problem with locals... left my things around Thai regularly and they just gave it back with smiles you know? Just travelers I've had problems with.” Wow that sucks. Karma. It'll come back to him. Her face changes; I've struck a chord of sorts. She replies “Live and let live.”

That's how conversation is with travelers. Dublin Ray was so wise. He never went to university but had such a keen view of life. A few of his quotes were: Money, politics, and religion. Man, take those away and you got a beautiful world." and, in Gaelic (which is a bad-ass language!) he said "Mind the pennies and the pounds look after themselves." Later he said "It's only after all the trees have been chopped down, all the rivers have been poisoned, and all the fish have been killed, only then will we realize we can't eat money." (Cherokee Navajo proverb).

And that's how conversation is with travelers! And it forms high and flows smoothly, rocketing foreword full of energy and intrigue. Perfect strangers smile and passionately converse. Casual banter transcends into substance and it's warming and beautiful! And then, with equal grace, with equal ease and equal fire, it dissolves. Paths part with the sad understanding that each will most likely never meet again. Or, at least, not for a long, long, time.
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Complete security and comfort in all environments; traveler's confidence; open good-will. It emanates from that brunette employee Donelle. A wonderful little Kiwi pixie she is. Danced so sexy to that tabla drum, twirling fire chains, overwhelmed with natural pleasure. She skipped and giggled about. There was no moon that night; her the only light—and a brilliant one at that.
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Locals call Cape Tribulation 'Cape Trap' because it's so moving. I get that now.